This image was taken five years ago, in March of 2018. The circumstances of this day are memorable because the conditions were perfect, but intimidating. The combination of freezing cold air and water paired with massive surf stoked my fear as I squeezed my body into my winter wetsuit and fit my camera into its water housing. The anticipation and excitement about the images which I believed I could produce in these conditions help push me to leave the relative warmth of my van and hop out into the beach parking lot. Under the lash of a heavy offshore wind, I know I will not turn back at this point.
As I run up the beach I am analyzing the ocean, looking for the best break, where the waves are most hollow. Once identified, this will be my target spot for getting the best images. At the same time I search for a patch of deeper water which will give me the best chance of being able to swim out to my intended destination. When the surf is big and cold, conditions need to be considered more seriously. Which way the current will be carrying me once my feet leave the sand, and how I can swim to the outside break while diving under the least amount of waves possible are important. Anyone who has submerged their head in 39 degree water will be familiar with the disorienting brain freeze that occurs after having to dive underneath consecutive waves in an attempt to keep forward progress.
My legs are fit, and years of surfing and swimming in adverse conditions serve me well. I am able to get in position to line up with some perfectly groomed winter waves in the 8ft+ range. I am at a beach which is popular for surfing, and I am shooting a combination of both surfers, and empty unridden waves. The cold temperatures and north wind remove moisture from the atmosphere, allowing the mid-morning sun to sparkle on the ocean surface. The spray from the top of the waves is being blown backwards as the waves themselves pulse towards the beach. I was in the perfect position to capture these elements coming together with this large set wave.
I swam for nearly four hours on this day. My adrenaline kept me in the water much longer than my tolerance for discomfort would have normally allowed. As the ocean conditions started to shift, I became aware of some strange sensations chest cavity. I figured this was my body telling me I needed either rest, hydration, or warmth….and probably all three. As I exited the water, removed my swim fins, and stepped back onto the sand I looked back at the ocean. Where a few hours earlier I had felt fear and excitement, I now felt gratitude and calmness. This experience has been a gift, and this image is my attempt at sharing that experience.